Traveling to Japan to study with GO Designer Leathers - 2018

Photo credit: Go Designer Leathers (www.gobag.jp)

In 2018 I returned for my second round of training with Go-san of Go Designer Leathers. Feeling pretty comfortable with small goods, I though it was time to learn how to make a bag. Specifically, I was interested in learning the gusseted construction of an English Style briefcase.

I love the classic style of the English Briefcase with the big Brass lock front and center, the straps on either side, squeezing closed the accordion gussets, all set off by the nice big handle on top. There is just so much visual interest going on, not to mention the practicality of the design. I couldn’t help myself.

The first handle style I learned to make featured a large burnished edge for the profile. I chose this style because the briefcase would have burnished edges, and I thought it would be more cohesive. To burnish such a large, flat area and make it look nice requires a tremendous amount of time and effort.

The first week of classes consisted of learning how to make the handle. Many different colored pieces of leather are glued in a stack and then carefully sculpted with a knife to form the rounded and tapered profile. The reason for using multicolored layers of leather is so that you can gauge the symmetry of the handle. The colors revealed as you sculpt form a topographical map and allow you to see any lapses in symmetry so you can then address them. These cores are then incorporated into the fastening part of the handle and covered with leather, then sewn.

I then decided to learn how to make another style of handle that is even nicer and it would not look out of place with the burnished edges as I had originally thought. This style appealed to me because it featured leather wrapped edges, and is a more straight forward approach.

Sadly, I was not able to complete my bag in the 3 weeks of training due to switching up the handle styles, but I am looking forward to finishing it at my shop.

photographyWilliam DePassNovember 12, 2018travel, japan

Traveling to Japan to study with GO Designer Leathers - 2018

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